Sunday 11 November 2012

Leaving Cascais

Cascais - Mohammedia, 319 miles


Friday 9th November

I didn't get a chance to make a proper post to go with the photos of Lisbon. We loved it. A fabulous city, beautiful architecture, cobbled streets, great open squares, museums, eateries, shops and a very friendly atmosphere. If you have a day to spare when moored at Cascais, go. It's 20 minutes by train, and they run every 30 minutes.



A note about motoring. On the trip so far, we've motored a lot. It's clearly possible to sail against the wind, but beating into the 25 knots or so we have encountered, added to the 3-4m swells, would have tired the crew. On other days, with 5 knots of wind, we could have sailed at 2 knots, but often switched on the iron sail and racked up the miles.

The ultimate question is time. With hopefully consistent winds crossing the Atlantic, it should be more predictable. Between the UK and the Canaries, though, how much time can you afford to lose with headwinds and no wind before switching on the power?

We left Cascais Marina at 09:30. John and Ross had tried to 'skype' the marina in Las Palmas to book a berth. With over 250 yachts expected to be there, ready for the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) which leaves in two weeks, our chances looked slim. We may need a fallback plan.

Morrocco in the meantime. Mohamedia marina, and the promise of a train trip to Marrakesh. I'd nearly been there in the mid 1980's, with a very good mate, Pete Jones, but the Uk and US bombed Libya, so we thought better of it. Fingers crossed this time.

A lovely beam reach to start the day. A securite message on the vhf alerted us to some live firing by the Portuguese Navy directly ahead. I suggested to John that we engage them. I reckon we could have taken them with a couple of volleys of rotten vegetables (there is a VERY dodgy tomato in the veg netting), or maybe lay them low by stealth - send them over some of Louise's cooking).

John was right though. What would we do with a Portuguese warship and 200 prisoners?

Ross has been in the galley for two hours now. I'm expecting a masterpiece. He likes garlic. He's gone easy this time though, just 6 cloves. Just passed a 'J' class yacht. Probably Antigua bound. Took some photos.




(Louise) I was on watch this morning from 2-4am. The sky was stunning an absolute mass of stars. We were motoring along with next to no wind, the sea inky blue with barely a ripple. I had to alter course to avoid a fishing boat so I sat in the cockpit making sure we were clear of him. Suddenly there was the familiar sleak grey body and dark fin of a dolphin diving alongside me. I stood up for a better look (obviously with my life jacket and safety harness clipped on).

I began to see the splashes of other dolphins as  they joined in the fun. At night you get whats called phosphorescence, its an algae that becomes luminous so as a wave breaks it looks like flashes of light. As the dolphins jumped their bodies caused this effect and it was amazing. As I looked out from the cockpit I could see silver streaks coming towards the boat from all directions, the ghostly trails of a pod of dolphins coming over to play. By this time I had to cover my mouth to stop myself squeeling, I was like a child at Christmas. The sea was alight with silver streaks, splashes, fins and I could even make out some of their high pitched calling. At one point three dolphins weaved along in a flashing slver trail right next to me, when they jumped I could have touched them.

Should I wake the others? Would I get a grumpy response of "i've seen dolphins before!" I stayed quiet, thinking they'd probably disappear soon anyway. 45 minutes later I was still enjoying the best light show of my life. A truly unforgetable, magical experience.