Sunday 10 July 2011

Up the river and down a rope.

The weather on Friday was not fantastic, 25 knots of Westerly and some hefty showers. Saturday and Sunday were better though, sunshine and F3-4, still from the West. We had a bit of unfinished business to do on Friday anyway.......

Two years ago, we had borrowed a mooring up the river at Llangwm. Shortly after leaving we had removed our chain. A much larger yacht was due to use the mooring, and her owner was laying her own, thicker chain. When I dived to remove our chain, I found that the mooring block was upside down. Ishtar, it seemed, must have bounced the 1.5 tonne concrete block in some freak swells when we were not there. I had to leave part of our chain, but promised the new occupant that I'd help him attach his chain, and right the concrete block when we did it. I left a 16mm thick nylon rope as marker.

The new occupant was John, and Chelone. As things turned out, he went off travelling to the Caribbean, and has only just returned, so the mooring never got sorted. Now was the time!

Louise and I set off from Dale around 14:00 on Friday. Against the ebb, but with genoa alone, in the 25 knot Westerlies, we made very good time. Saw this vessel playing about with one of the channel marker bouys.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Galatea"]Galatea[/caption]

 

She's Galatea, a Trinity House maintenence vessel, and, if I recall correctly, the vessel that took the stars to the Scilly isles in one of the 'Three men in a boat' episodes.

It was quite refreshing to hear one of her crew struggle to control the giggles when a Castlemartin range control boat referred to her as 'sir'.

A peaceful sail up the river was followed by a quick dive to survey the mooring.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Llangwm dive"]Llangwm dive[/caption]

The visibility in the ebbing tide was dreadful. A complete blackout just 50cm below the surface. It's hard to describe the claustrophobic conditions. The water moving silently past, the only other sensory input apart from the feel of the rope in your hand as you descend what feels like hundreds of metres into the blackness. It's only 5m to the river bed.

I felt the block, and some other nasty things as well, what felt like rope and something long and cylindrical. Surely not a conger, this far upstream? I switched the torch on. Useless. The limit of it's very bright beam petered out about 12-13 inches from its bulb. I supposed it must have been the remains of an old hawser used to moor a previous boat.

The block was still upside down. I had no hope of attaching a new chain unless I could right this 3ft x 3ft x 2ft block of concrete.

I returned to the surface, and to the air, so glad to be out of the cold darkness. As it was now slack water, I had an idea. I pulled the line until Ishtar was directly over the block, and then cleated it off. I set a waypoint on the GPS and then waited. Over the next three hours, I watched the tide rise, inch by inch until over 2 metres more water lay between us and the block. Suddenly, from being 2, 3, 4 metres away from the point I had entered, we were 13m away.

Something had happened. I released the line. Louise warmed up an excellent curry, followed by lemon cheesecake and a glass of wine, and we retired.

She was up at 07:00, dragging Tigger out of his slumbers, his dreams of roasting joints of beef and sunkissed beaches, warm waters and a plentful supply of sticks. Off they both paddled in the tender, watched bemusedly by a pair of early morning visitors.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Misty morning"]Misty morning[/caption]

 

When they returned, I downed a quick coffee and dived in. The visibility was better with the flood bringing in clearer saltwater, mixing with the muddy river water from the Cleddau basin. As I reached the bottom I could see, to my delight and great satisfaction, the block was now sitting upright on the river bed. Removing the old chain and adding the new would now be a formality, once John arrived with the new mooring chain around mid morning. Ishtar had lifted the block back to the way it was laid.

I set off in the dinghy and met John ashore about 10:00. We loaded the new mooring into the dinghy as John set off to fetch Chelone up from Neyland, some 5 miles downstream.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="New mooring"]New mooring[/caption]

 

I quickly slid the mooring down the old line, shackle first, then dived. Disconnected the old line, which Louise pulled up. I attached the new mooring to the block, did the shackle up tight with spanner and crowbar, seized it and surfaced for another coffee. By the time John brough Shelone around the corner, 15 minutes later, his new mooring was waiting for her.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Chelone"]Chelone[/caption]

Louise and I went aboard Chelone for tea and biscuits and then Louise took some other guests ashore.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guests"]Guests[/caption]

I'm afraid I don't know who these people are, but they were kind enough not to sink our dinghy!

We soon took John ashore and set off downstream, leaving Chelone comfortable and looking pretty in her temporary new home.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Chelone"]Chelone[/caption]



 

Louise sailed us down the river, then handled Ishtar expertly as we beat, tack after tack against the Westerly wind towards Dale. We saw this strange vessel on the way down the river, a kayak trimaran. her owner seemed cheerful enough, but would have preferred a larger sail. That's what he told us, anyway.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Kayak Trimaran"]Kayak Trimaran[/caption]

 

Another marvellous sunset at Dale on Saturday evening:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale Sunset"]Dale Sunset[/caption]

 

We spent Sunday removing excess junk from Ishtar. Multiple hanks of rope and old haliards. assorted bouys, a rope ladder, and other junk, too boring to describe, or to photograph. Left the boat around 15:00 after a quick cuppa with our friend Dave, from Mar-y-Sol, and home.

Monday 4 July 2011

Caswyn, Vince and Dave

We set off from North Haven, Skomer early on Saturday morning, motoring around the West side of the Island rather than waiting for slack water at Jack Sound. with less than three knots of wind, we didn't even try to sail against the last of the North going tide. A couple of hours later we were rounding St Anne's head and, shortly after that, Louise and Tigger went ashore in the dinghy, and then off to Milford by car, for provisions.

Caswyn was due in around lunchtime, having left Oxwich, where they spent the night just after 06:00. They duly pulled in at Dale around 13:00, and shortly after that, Louise and I went over to see them.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Caswyn"]Caswyn[/caption]

I'd promised to dive on Caswyn's mooring for Dave, but had not yet managed it. Instead, we pulled up the riser and attached the mooring buoy. I did try and snorkel the chain, to check it, buu couldn't manage the full length, so I'd have to dive it when I bring back my dive gear to Ishtar after the Lundy trip.

That sorted, we ate some lunch and then all went ashore for showers and a visit to The Griffin.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Martin, Vince, Dave at the Griffin"]Martin, Vince, Dave at the Griffin[/caption]

 

I picked up some weed in the tender outboard on the way back to Ishtar, which caused it to overheat, but it seemed fine once I cleared the blockage. Louise cooked a loved chinese meal of sweet and sours prawns or chicken with duck in plum sauce, followed by Banoffee pie with cream. With Dave and Vince tired after their passage, Louise and I then headed back to Ishtar and our bunks.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale sunset"]Dale sunset[/caption]

 

Sunday dawned hot and windless. There seemed no chance of sailing. Dave wanted to do some work aboard Caswyn, so Vince joined Louise and I aboard Ishtar as we headed around to Castlebeach Bay. Louise would do some fishing, and Vince and I would take Tigger ashore.

We soon lay at anchor and I quickly rowed Vince and Tigger ashore at Castlebeach.

After throwing a stick into the sea for Tigger for a short while, we meandered up the coast path to Dale point, looking down on Ishtar on one side of the headland

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar, centre"]Ishtar, centre[/caption]

and then down on Caswyn, near the pontoon on the other side



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale"]Dale[/caption]

After returning to the boat, we motored out to St Anne's head where Louise and Vince did a bit of fishing. With just one mackerel to show for an hour's effort, though, I suggested we try over the wreck of the Dakotian.

This was far more fruitfull, and Louise was soon well ahead in the race



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Mackerel"]Mackerel[/caption]

Vince soon joined in with a small pollack, before sealing the matter quite categorically a few moments later with a lovely cod.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Vince, with cod"]Vince, with cod[/caption]

Tired, sunburned but very happy indeed, we returned to Dave aboard Caswyn. Pretty soon we were ferrying our belongings ashore, Vince and Dave enjoying a pint and Louise and I an ice cream before we squeezed into Louise's tiny Citroen and returned to civilization, all of us wishing we could stay in Pembrokeshire for a few more days.

I'm sure we'll be back soon.



Skomer

Friday dawned hot and sunny. The day aboard Ishtar started early. Coffee and crumpets at 07:00, before Louise set off once again for the harbour, with Tigger in the dinghy. If anyone knows how to teach a dog to row himself ashore for his ablutions, I'd be very grateful of some advice.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Taking Tigger ashore"]Taking Tigger ashore[/caption]

 

There wasn't a breath of wind in the harbour, so we fired up the engine on their return and set out past the breakwater, the Fishguard-Rosslare Catamaran ferry growling away at her berth, but not, it seemed, ready to fly off across the Irish Sea just yet.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Leaving Fishguard"]Leaving Fishguard[/caption]

 

Our plans were fairly fluid. We wanted to get back down through Ramsey Sound, and then perhaps anchor for the night at Porthllysgi, or maybe the pool in Solva. Spend Saturday pottering about in St Brides bay, sailing past Newgale, Nolton and Little Haven before returning to Dale on Sunday.

That plan soon changed when we received news that our friend Vince was crewing aboard 'Caswyn', another Cardiff boat, owned by another friend, Dave. They would be arriving at Dale on Saturday. We decided to head South sooned than we'd planned, and meet them at lunchtime on Saturday.

There was still no real rush, and, despite several other yachts motoring Southwards past us, we wanted to sail. In particular, Louise wanted to hoist our cruising chute alone, which she quickly did, and did well.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Crusing chute"]Crusing chute[/caption]

 

This was one of those times when things kept getting better and better, however, as a pod of common dolphins joined us, just as the crusing chute filled and started driving Ishtar forwards.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dolphins"]Dolphins[/caption]

 

Tigger was fascinated. As a latecomer to the art of swimming, he marvelled at the speed, grace and skill of these advanced swimmers.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Look at those guys!"]Look at those guys![/caption]

 

The dolphins stayed with us for half an hour or so. I was surprised that they stayed with us, as we sailed - there seemed to be no action aboard the motoring yachts in front of us to suggest they had dolphons too.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="More dolphins"]More dolphins[/caption]

 As we rounded St Davids head and turned Southwards towards Ramsey Sound, our speed picked up. Louise dropped the Cruising chute, dipping it in the sea in the process. She was determined to try again and get it right, and she did so just a few hours later, much to her delight.

I switched on the engine for this passage through the Sound. About a mile North of the Sound, a cross current suddenly sent us 4o degrees off course, threatening to take us down the West side of the Island. We corrected and were soon hurtling through the Sound at over 10 knots speed over ground.

We saw a couple of smaller fins as we neared the exit of the Sound at Shoe rock. I steered towards them, to try and get a better view, then quickly wished I hadn't as a vicious back eddy set us twoards Shoe rock. I quickly corrected and made another mental note. Years of  'doing what we like'  when aboard dive ribs in Ramsey Sound needed to be forgotten when aboard a sailing yacht. Keep on track and get through the place is the order of the day from now on.

After exiting Ramsey Sound we headed East to the nearby bay of Porthllysgi, for lunch. Tigger and Louise fancied a swim, though ultimately only one of them got wet, the other letting out a series of loud screeching noises as they dipped a toe into the coolish waters of the bay.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Porthllysgi"]Porthllysgi[/caption]

Tigger was initially a reluctant sailor, but he's gradually learned to enjoy it, walking about on deck and observing the wildlife. He absolutely loves shore leave, of course.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Tigger"]Tigger[/caption]


 

An hour later we raised the anchor and set off for Skomer. Louise raised and lowered the crusing chute perfectly, but by 17:00 what little wind was left sighed and died as the high pressure built over the UK. We switched to engine power, the noise spoiling the peace of the day as we motored into North Haven Skomer and picked up a mooring buoy.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="North Haven, Skomer"]North Haven, Skomer[/caption]

The last of the day tripper boats made their way past us, admiring the puffins and shearwaters, gannets and guillemots, their numbers clouding the skies and their calls filling the air as the sun sank lower, leading to a beautiful West Wales sunset.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunset"]Sunset[/caption]

We opened a bottle of wine, and Louise started warming food. That was then delayed for over an hour, as the sound of Tigger barking on deck led us upwards to see a young seal playing around Ishtar.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Seal"]Seal[/caption]

Unbelievably, things were still getting better, as the seal played with our dinghy



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Seal and dinghy"]Seal and dinghy[/caption]



 

and seemed so fascinated by Tigger that Louise could surely have stroked it, if she'd wanted to.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Louise, Seal, Tigger."]Louise, Seal, Tigger.[/caption]

This was turning into one of those weekends you remember for a long time.

Fishguard

High pressure, blue skies and Louise was not working her usual Thursday night shift. We'd not been to Fishguard in Ishtar yet, so we made a plan.....

We arived at Dale around 11:30 on Thursday, an hour or so before low tide, and with just enough water left to launch the tender. We had an hour and a half to catch the slack at Jack Sound, so set off straight away, motoring into the South going current after passing St Anne's head. We got To Jack Sound just as slack was ending, and the North going flood was picking up.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Jack Sound from the South"]Jack Sound from the South[/caption]

 

The seas around Pembs were flat calm, but there was still some chop and a few confused swells as we passed between the dangerous rocks, Louise at the helm. Once through, she put the sails up and we had a lovely sail, close hauled in the lightest of Northwesterlies, quickly covering the 6 or so miles to Ramsey Sound.

This was Ishtar's furthest point North to date, and despite Louise and I having 20 plus years experience of diving In Ramsey sound, the last 10 years or so almost exclusively, we'd never been through with a sailing boat. Navigating the rocks, strong currents, upwellings, eddies and whirlpools in a lightweight dive rib with 70HP or so on the back is easy enough. In a heavy yacht with a quarter of that power, it's a different matter.

In actual fact, we wanted to try and sail it. We'd planned on sailing well to the West of Shoe Rock at the Southeast end. then slip past the Bitches reef on our port side before heading to the Northwest to avoid Horse rock. Easy enough?

It all went well until we passed the Bitches reef, when an eddy set us straight for horse rock. We tacked frantically to give us some Westing and then got caught in a South going eddy which headed us momentarily back towards the Bitches before we picked up speed and resumed our North going passage out of the Sound. I made a mental note to motor through Ramsey Sound from now on whenever we attempted it without slack water. Still, we both enjoyed the achievement.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Louise. Ramsey Sound"]Louise. Ramsey Sound[/caption]

 Just behind Louise in that picture is the 'Gower Ranger', run by our friends Clive and Cindy of 'Thousand Islands Expeditions' taking visitors across to Ramsey Island three times a day.

On we sailed, into the evening and, as we passed St Davids Head, and turned Northeastwards towards Strumble Head, we left the Bristol Channel for the very first time, and would now be listening to "St Davids Head to Great Orme Head including St Georges Channel" for our weather forecast.

A few hours later we passed Strumble head lighthouse, the sea again seemed in a confused state, after being so calm on the way up. It really wasn't worth mentioning, other than the fact that it made me think what it must be like there when there is a winter Gale blowing.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Strumble Head"]Strumble Head[/caption]

 

There was a distinct back eddy, about a knot and a half heading South West, with the main current heading NorthEast, as we passed the lighthouse, but we were soon turning the corner into the sheltered waters of Fishguard.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Fishguard Harbour"]Fishguard Harbour[/caption]

We anchored in 5.5 metres, a couple of hours after high. I couldn't work out why so many other yachts were so much closer in than us, until I realised that I was still thinking in terms of Milford tides. When I checked the almanac, I realised I should have done a 'secondary port' calculation. Had I done so, I would have realised that there is a much smaller range at Fishguard, and we could have anchored further in, too.

Louise rowed Tigger ashore as the sun dipped towards the horizon, with the promise of hot sunshine for the next few days.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar at Fishguard"]Ishtar at Fishguard[/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Fishguard Harbour"]Fishguard Harbour[/caption]

On her return, she cooked up sausages, cheese and onion mash with peas and broad beans and onion gravy, with tirimasu for dessert. A lovely, lovely day.