[/caption]The Caribbean drought meant that water was not available on the quay. As we filled with diesel, we topped up the water tanks at the same time. $1 US per gallon, so we would be careful with it. Set out for Guadeloupe at 07:40, wind ESE, Force 2, so we motorsailed. Louise spotted a 'dolphin' off the starboard bow, but the second time it surfaced, we ould see that it was solitary, and was far too large. I'm guessing Minke or Pilot whale.
Guadeloupe is, in fact, two islands, Basse Terre and Grande Terre. In between is the Riviere Salee, a saltwater 'canal' which joins the sea to the North and South of the Islands. To get to the North end of the riviere, one has to navigate a buoyed channel (IALA 'B') through the coral. We could not resist the chance of a quick swim and snorkel.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Snorkelling, Grand cul de sac de Marin"]
[/caption]Not a great photo, but you can see the reef, marked by the light coloured water just above the moored boat in the picture and running left to right. This is why it is not recommended to navigate channels through coral reefs at night. As we later found, not all of the buoys in the channel were lit.
The entrance to the Riviere Salee itself was a mangrove swamp, and with 2m of water maximum, we were concerned. No problem though, and we were soon in a narrow channel. surrounded by mangroves.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Can you hear the Mozzies.....?"]
[/caption]A swing bridge controls entry at either end of the Riviere. The bridges open once per day at 04:30, so we anchored just near the bridge to wait. The mosquitoes were well versed in finding sailors.
The bridges opened on time and we navigated the canal with ease, anchoring again just after 05:00 for a couple of hours sleep.
We did not go ashore on Guadeloupe, but the town, Pointe a Pitre, did not look inviting, although there was a marina for fuel and water.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Pointe a Pitre"]
[/caption]More reefs and buoyed channels as we left the Southern end of the Riviere Salee and headed south, 20 miles or so, towards the Guadeloupe dependency, Les Saintes. A stop for a swim on the way and we arrived at Terre de Haute just as a cruise ship was leaving, complete with sails.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cruise Ship, Les Saintes"]
[/caption]It was Louise's 40th Birthday, so we went ashore for a few beers in this charming French town. Ah, no dollars, and no Eastern Caribbean dollar, Euros only. We found a nice looking restaurant, Le Cafe Insolente. Yes it was. Food was OK, my Octopus Bourginoin was too strong a flavour for the fish, but we enjoyed.
The following morning we had eggs, cheese, French bread and good coffee and juice for breakfast.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="South of France?"]
[/caption]The supermarket was well stocked, although the fresh veg was very poor. The eruption at Monserrat had dusted many crops with volcanic ash, and the drought had not helped matters. The French bakery almost made up for that.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Baie de Marigot"]
[/caption]Back to the boat and a 2 mile hop around the corner to Baie de Marigot, where we anchored with two other boats. Just 1km from the town, but we saw Pelicans and iguanas, and, under water, morays, puffer fish and barracuda.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Pelican, landing, er, gracefully."]
[/caption][caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Iguana"]
[/caption]A walk into town for an evening beer was followed by fish curry back on the boat. I made Louise an Aubergine curry and she made Chapattis, a favourite on Ishtar, and all was enjoyed.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Making Chapattis"]
[/caption]A leisurely start the following morning as we sailed back around to the town, passing Hexagonal bassalts, evidence of the Caribbean's volcanic history, heading South again, towards our next Island, Dominica.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Hexagonal basalts"]
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