Dominica

More upwind sailing, and against the current. Uncomfortable, but it would be churlish to complain. Only 20 miles.

Dominica, when we arrived at Portsmouth on it's NorthWest shore, was completely different from what we had seen so far. Steep sided, with rainclouds on the peaks and what appeared to be just a few shacks, rather than any large scale development. We did see a few buildings and a petrol station later.

This was also the first appearance of the boat boys, which seemed more prevalent as we moved Southwards. These fellows shoot about the bay in wooden boats, with Yamaha Enduro outboards, offering to show you where to anchor, sell you flags, food or water, run tours for you, guard your boat when you are ashore and many other services,

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Eric Spaghetti "][/caption]

 This was Eric Spaghetti, my favourite name, ever, I think. The pilot guide had warned that some of these guys could be rude or threatening, and some would try and steal. This was not our experience at all, they were curteous and good natured. We anchored, Portsmouth being a good anchorage, shallow and sandy, and headed ashore to a bar, Big Papa's, for a beer and to watch the sunset.

 

The street behind this beach bar showed a bit more of the true nature of Dominica, as far as I could tell.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Street life, Dominica"][/caption]

We returned to the boat. Vegetable chilli with rice and Fajitas.

The following morning we had decided to take a trip up 'Indian River', a bit of a tourist attraction, and used in the film Pirates of the Caribbean, Dead men's chest'. $EC 40 each, about £9. No outboards allowed so Eric rowed us through the tangled roots of the mangroves, fish and wading birds all around. No other life though, Eric explained how they'd shot many of the monkeys as they stole bananas. Who'd have thought it, eh?

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Indian River "][/caption]

 At the furthest navigable point up the river, we stopped for a walk in the rainforest and refreshments at a small bar. Grapefruit crush sounded nice, although a later stomach upset left me wondering whether the water came directly from the river.We quickly upped anchor on return to Cafe Seerose and sailed South for the Capital, Roseau. The anchorage was poor, 20m of water close in to the shore, and 200m a mile or so off. First time we anchored with a Stern line ashore, but dragged, so we abandoned tht stern line and managed to hold.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Will the anchor drag?"][/caption]

Look happy don't I? We went ashore for food. A single line of concrete shacks led to the main town. We found a shop for provisions, but walking back, in the dark, I was concerned, staring at people drinking in the unlit insides of dwellings that were open to the street. There was nothing to worry about, and we enjoyed a lovely meal at a local restaurant.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Roseau, Dominica"][/caption]

Guadeloupe

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Baie de Marigor, Les Saintes, Guadeloupe"][/caption]

The Caribbean drought meant that water was not available on the quay. As we filled with diesel, we topped up the water tanks at the same time. $1 US per gallon, so we would be careful with it. Set out for Guadeloupe at 07:40, wind ESE, Force 2, so we motorsailed. Louise spotted a 'dolphin' off the starboard bow, but the second time it surfaced, we ould see that it was solitary, and was far too large. I'm guessing Minke or Pilot whale.

Guadeloupe is, in fact, two islands, Basse Terre and Grande Terre. In between is the Riviere Salee, a saltwater 'canal' which joins the sea to the North and South of the Islands. To get to the North end of the riviere, one has to navigate a buoyed channel (IALA 'B') through the coral. We could not resist the chance of a quick swim and snorkel.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Snorkelling, Grand cul de sac de Marin"][/caption]

Not a great photo, but you can see the reef, marked by the light coloured water just above the moored boat in the picture and running left to right. This is why it is not recommended to navigate channels through coral reefs at night. As we later found, not all of the buoys in the channel were lit.

The entrance to the Riviere Salee itself was a mangrove swamp, and with 2m of water maximum, we were concerned. No problem though, and we were soon in a narrow channel. surrounded by mangroves.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Can you hear the Mozzies.....?"][/caption]

A swing bridge controls entry at either end of the Riviere. The bridges open once per day at 04:30, so we anchored just near the bridge to wait. The mosquitoes were well versed in finding sailors.

The bridges opened on time and we navigated the canal with ease, anchoring again just after 05:00 for a couple of hours sleep.

We did not go ashore on Guadeloupe, but the town, Pointe a Pitre, did not look inviting, although there was a marina for fuel and water.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Pointe a Pitre"][/caption]

More reefs and buoyed channels as we left the Southern end of the Riviere Salee and headed south, 20 miles or so, towards the Guadeloupe dependency, Les Saintes. A stop for a swim on the way and we arrived at Terre de Haute just as a cruise ship was leaving, complete with sails.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cruise Ship, Les Saintes"][/caption]

 

It was Louise's 40th Birthday, so we went ashore for a few beers in this charming French town. Ah, no dollars, and no Eastern Caribbean dollar, Euros only. We found a nice looking restaurant, Le Cafe Insolente. Yes it was. Food was OK, my Octopus Bourginoin was too strong a flavour for the fish, but we enjoyed.

The following morning we had eggs, cheese, French bread and good coffee and juice for breakfast.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="South of France?"][/caption]

 

The supermarket was well stocked, although the fresh veg was very poor. The eruption at Monserrat had dusted many crops with volcanic ash, and the drought had not helped matters. The French bakery almost made up for that.

 

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Baie de Marigot"][/caption]

Back to the boat and a 2 mile hop around the corner to Baie de Marigot, where we anchored with two other boats. Just 1km from the town, but we saw Pelicans and iguanas, and, under water, morays, puffer fish and barracuda.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Pelican, landing, er, gracefully."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Iguana"][/caption]

 

A walk into town for an evening beer was followed by fish curry back on the boat. I made Louise an Aubergine curry and she made Chapattis, a favourite on Ishtar, and all was enjoyed.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Making Chapattis"][/caption]

A leisurely start the following morning as we sailed back around to the town, passing Hexagonal bassalts, evidence of the Caribbean's volcanic history, heading South again, towards our next Island, Dominica.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Hexagonal basalts"][/caption]

Antigua

We had a chance for a couple of weeks sailing in the Caribbean, courtesy of a friend and his 40ft Beneteau Oceanis which he sailed there from Greece before Christmas. We'd sailed with Mark in the Ionian last summer, and couldn't wait for a chance to see more of the Caribbean, having only been to the Cayman Islands to date.

Flew out on BA from Gatwick, leaving behind the last of the cold weather, news reports still talking of snow. Flight delayed so arrived in St Johns, Antigua as the sun set. $31 for a taxi ride to Nelson's Quay, on the South coast, where we met up with Mark, Emma and the boat, Cafe Seerose. She was moored against the old quay, part of an up market marina complex restored in the 1950s-1970s, over 150 years after Nelson was stationed here.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cafe Seerose at Nelson's Quay"][/caption]

 

We walked a short distance to a supermarket near Antigua Yacht Club to stock up for our trip. I'd never seen boats as large and luxurious. Each yacht waited, in perfect order, for its next charter, piles of crew shoes on the pontoon nearby.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Mirabella V, the largest single masted yacht in the world"][/caption]

Still tired, and nowhere near used to the heat, we decided to go for a sail. We left the dock and headed out Westwards, ominous smoke billowing upwards from Monserrat. We didn't know it at the time, but a recent eruption, combined with drought in the Caribbean had ensured that fresh fruit and veg would be in poor supply.

Mark explained the 0.5-1kt current that flows from South to North and the fairly consistent SE winds. A beam reach in a SE force 5 with swells, on top of the travelling and the heat made Louise feel a bit seasick. For me, it was great to be sailing in the Caribbean. An hour later and we headed back to Nelson's, stopping for a swim on the way. Water Temperature 27.8C

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cooling off"][/caption]

A longer trip the following day, Westwards along the South edge of Antigua for a couple of dives off Cades reef. Shallow, and not overly exciting, but nice to be diving in warm water.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Diving, Cades Reef, Antigua"][/caption]

 

We caught a yellow tailed snapper on the way back, so anchored in Falmouth and lit a hasty barbeque. Excellent fish. We discussed an early start, and a sail Southwards in the morning, heading for Guadeloupe.