Tuesday, 22 June 2010

Waterford and Dunmore East

I'd noticed the cabin lights suddenly dim a few days before leaving. On the way across to Ireland our 110 ah auxilliary battery had refused to hold a charge at all. This meant that sailing was risky, with the autopilot draining the engine battery. Night sailing wasn't really an option, running the navigation lights as well as the autopilot from the engine battery was not an option. Annoying, but we would survive.

We took Tigger to 'The people's park' again. It seems only fair. He does enjoy the boat, and loves being with us, but we do make the effort to take him ashore for a run whenever we can. We priced a battery, E150 for a 75ah battery. I was not prepared to pay that so we made our way back to the boat.

Louise went off to buy some fresh bread when I heard someone calling me from outside the marina. I let them in - they seemed to know me and turned out to be the father and uncle of a friend from Cardiff Yacht club. They had heard about our battery problems and offered to help. I made some tea, and Louise returned with cake. Billy and Butch went off to get their boat, along with, they said, a battery that might be ok.

Our saviours

They returned after an hour or so and gave us a 90ah Bosch battery, which was in excellent condition. They also gave us a bottle of liquor, which was delightful. They refused any talk of payment and left, with our gratitude, for a couple of hours crusining up the river Suir. Many, many thanks for your gererosity, Billy and Butch.

Half an hour later and we were leaving Waterford. The pilot suggests working with the tide, so as soon as the flood dnded, we cast off and headed down river for Dunmore East.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Leaving Waterford"]Leaving Waterford[/caption]

 

A gentle motor down the river, past the oak trees and rhododendrons, container terminals and railway bridges, and then Louise fancied a sail. Full sail and 6 knots as the river opened out into Waterford Harbour, we hurtled towards the walls of the fishing harbour at Dunmore East:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Approaching Dunmore East"]Approaching Dunmore East[/caption]

Some friends of ours has stayed at Dunmore East two weeks before, so we were prepared to raft up against fishing boats. We asked a couple of people as we entered the harbour and soon tied up alongside a day fishing boat.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Rafted UpAs we climbed up over some old boats in very poor condition, I had to climb a ladder with Tigger under one arm. We walked around the bay to a small rocky cove behind Waterford Harbour Yacht Club when I noticed two other day fishing boats approaching Ishtar.Since we had heard that some strong winds were on the way, we'd decided to leave at 04:30. I didn't really want to be in the middle of a raft, so asked the two new boats if they minded if I moved Ishtar back to the outside. They were very friendly and 10 minutes later, we were throwing sticks into the see for Tigger.WHYC were happy to allow a sandy wet lurcher onto their balcony, so Louise and I enjoyed a drink, looking out over the moorings, chatting with the members and watching the sun set as kids splashed and shouted in the sea below.WHYC Moorings"]Rafted Up[/caption]




[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Wet dogs and yacht clubs"]Wet dogs and yacht clubs[/caption]


Took Tigger for a wander around the harbour before retiring for the night. Another beautiful day, another lovely sunset. It was to be a 4 o'clock start, so we tried to get an early night, in this bustling fishing port:



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Creels and Ishtar"]Creels and Ishtar[/caption]

Across the Irish Sea

This was our target for 2010. If at all possible, with weather, work and doing up the new house, we'd like to make it to Ireland. Once we'd done it once, there would be no reason not to try and do it regularly, and extend our cruising area.

Bought a pilot book on Amazon and set off for Dale as soon as it arrived in the post. We arrived at Dale 14:00 Thursday and set about leaving as soon as we could, motoring out of the haven in almost no wind, the Pembroke Ferry would be there in a couple of hours, it would take us all night.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ferry leaving Pembroke"]Ferry leaving Pembroke[/caption]

Even though it was the first time Louise and I had done a night passage on our own, on our own boat, I was excited. I felt elated as we rounded St Anne's head and headed Westwards, leaving Pembrokeshire behind and sailin (motoring) off into the sunset. Louise, having done a nightshift, retired with Tigger, leaving me alone to enjoy the late evening.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunset, Irish Sea"]Sunset, Irish Sea[/caption]

 The tide was running South, so I stayed 2-3 miles to the South of Skomer, Skokholm, Grassholm, the Hats, Barrels and teh smalls, looking ghostly as the light faded.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Skokholm"]Skokholm[/caption]

There were dolphins every few miles, one emitting a curious barking noise as it surfaced. Never heard that before, and I've seen many many dolphins. Louise surfaced just before 23:00. Within 1/2 an hour or so, it was properly dark. I asked her what she could see, and she said she could see the Smalls light. I pointed out three tiny pinpricks of light, vessels running North and South in the Traffic Separation Scheme to the West of the Smalls. Once 'accllimatized' to looking for ships, I went below for a couple of hours sleep, leaving Louise to the darkness, and the sea.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Louise, Night Passage"]Louise, Night Passage[/caption]

We did two hour watches. In June, it doesn't get really darl until after 11:00, and the sky lightens again around 04:00, so it was a short night indeed. Louise took the next watch, and the sun was climbing when I joined her on deck just before 5am.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunset and Saltee Islands"]Sunset and Saltee Islands[/caption]

We were both tired, but strong coffee, freshly brewed, helped with that. A Southerly, force 2-3 sprang up, and teh sails helped our speed, and reduced the roll, as we appoached Hook Point Light, and the Entrance to Waterford harbour. I'm not really sure why I'd been so apprehensive - we sailed off into the darkness, but, it seems, did not disappear over the end of the Earth,  making landfall in Ireland a few hours later, all quite easy and predictable, really, but we were both grinning to be in Ireland.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Hook Point"]Hook Point[/caption]

As we approached Hook point, we came across many nets and lobster pots, weaving in between them, an annoyance as we neared teh entrance to Waterford harbour. We were soon 'round Hook point, however, the fishing port of Dunmore East to the West of us.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dunmore East"]Dunmore East[/caption]

 Waterford Harbour, the Estuary for the River Barrow, is about two miles wide, by perhaps 6 miles in length. Shallow, and marked with buoys, it nevertheless takes container ships and cruise ships as well as fishing vessels and pleasure craft. We sailed on Northwards before turning the corner into the river proper, avoiding the river ferry on the way:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="River Barrow Ferry"]River Barrow Ferry[/caption]


 

Tigger kept watch, in case the ferry got two close. He then programmed the autopilot to take us up to Waterford:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Couple more degrees to starboard, please."]Couple more degrees to starboard, please.[/caption]

 

A little further upstream and the banks started to close in. Ahead lay the power station, and the point where the Rivers Barrow and suir met. Ther railway bridge has a swing section, opening on demand. We may try it next time.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Entrance to the River Barrow"]Entrance to the River Barrow[/caption]

 

The River Barrow/Suir reminded me of the Cleddau at Milford Haven, or the Avon as you approach Bristol. Deeply sloping wooded banks, with Herons and wildlife, interspersed with industrial features befitting a major port.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="I am enjoying myself, honest"]I am happy, honest[/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Waterford container port"]Waterford container port[/caption]

 

A little further upstream and the River Suir splits to go around an island. we stayed in the northern channel, as the pilot suggested, and were soon approaching Waterford itself. We'd been warned about strong currents, but there were neap tides, and Louise handled Ishtar beautifully under power. We were soon tying up on Waterford visitor's pontoon.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar at Waterford"]Ishtar at Waterford[/caption]

Louise went off to pay and pick up a few brochures. There were toilets and showers nearby, and we were a couple of muntes away from the centre of town. I lay down and pretty soon was sleeping, just for an hour!

When Louise got back, we decided that 18 or so hours on a boat was enough for a small black lurcher. The tourist map that Louise had picked up showed 'The people's park' about 10 minutes walk away. With trees and wide open spaces, Tigger found it very agreeable indeed, and enjoyed exploring immensely.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Tigger exploring The People's park."]Tigger exploring The Peoples park.[/caption]


 

Relaxed and happy, the three of us made our way back to Ishtar. Louise had spotted a curry house, and a friend, born in Waterford had recommended a bar. We wandered through the streets, just enjoying the sights:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Church, Waterford"]Church, Waterford[/caption]

 The curry was excellent, as was the guinness. I was distraught when, around 10pm, a few chaps started playing the banjo, guitar and bodhran.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guinness"]Guinness[/caption]

They were very good, but I was exhausted, so we made our way back to the boat, and yet another stunning sunset.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Waterford Sunset"]Waterford Sunset[/caption]

What a brilliant day.

Thursday, 27 May 2010

A Short sail up the river.

My father had agreed to pick us up from Dale on Sunday and take us back to Briton Ferry. We'd travel down in the car from now on, of course, but needed a lift this first time.

The day dawned windless, or almost so. At 10:00 the Dale racing fleet set off, doing about 12 knots, cumulative, between all of them:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Racing fleet"]Racing fleet[/caption]

Went ashore in the dinghy and picked up my father. Cup of coffee, quick tour of the boat and then we set off up the river towards Milford. Nice bit of Southerly, but that died within 15 minutes and we were under power again.

My father had worked on the Texaco plant (Now Chevron-Texaco) in the 70s and 80s, so it was great to sail past the jetties with him, although it maybe doesn't show in the picture:



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Enjoying a sail ?"]Enjoying a sail ?[/caption]


 

We sailed on, up past the Cleddau bridge, up past Lawrenny turning to head back just before the tide. We managed to shut the engine off and sailed, well heeled for about 20 minutes towards Angle before the 'variable' wind died again. My father was chuffed, even more so when Louise dished up Tirimasu with Fresh cream.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Tirimasu"]Tirimasu[/caption]

 

We arrived back at Dale at 17:00 and, 2 1/2 hours later back home in Briton Ferry. First real shake down sailing of teh year, and very successful.

Day trip to Solva

Neap tides and good weather. It was slack in Jack Sound around 16:30. running South thereafter. We could sail up to Solva and take a ride back on the tide.

We set off after some hot coffee around 07:30, passing Dale Fort in the early morning sunshine.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale Fort"]Dale Fort[/caption]

 We got the sails up before rounding St Anne's head. Decided to go well to the West, then run North, past Skokholm and Skomer, before turning into St Brides bay and heading for Solva.

The wind was variable, but we did manage to get the cruising chute up for an hour as we approached Skokholm.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Skokholm"]Skokholm[/caption]

 

I'd already adjusted for the watchfulness one has to have when in  major port like Milford, and that includes maintaining a radio watch. It's not just in the Haven you have to be on your guard, though:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Close shave"]Close shave[/caption]

 

As we turned NorthWest from North, heading across the jewelled waters of St Brides bay, a nice Westerly sprang up, and we scythed along through the waters at better than 6 knots, with the tide. Then, halfway across the bay, a 180 degree swing in the wind in about 30 seconds, falling in strength as it did so. I could see solva ahead, partially hidden by the island of Green Scar.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Solva, behind Green Scar"]Solva, behind Green Scar[/caption]

We cut in between Green Scar and a smaller rock called The Mare, an excellent dive site, dodging lobster pots, enjoying the view.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Green Scar, with Black Scar (left)"]Green Scar, with Black Scar (left)[/caption]


 

Tom Bennett's 'Sea guide to Pembrokeshire' suggests passing to the East of Black rock (with an iron post on top) when entering Solva. There was little swell as we approached, but the entrance did seem narrow:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Black rock and Solva"]Black rock and Solva[/caption]

Pretty soon we were in, the temperature rocketed in this little sun trap of a harbour. We slowlymotored up towards Solva yacht club, but when I reached 0.2m under the keel I gave up.

Solva, Yacht club left.

As we turned to leave the Harbourmaster called us on the radio. He suggested we'd be fine on a visitor's mooring for an hour or so. We pulled one up, to find a strong stern line and one for the Bows. We tied up and switched the engine off. Tea, cakes and sandwiches were rustled up by Louise.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Mooring boys, looking out of Solva"]Mooring boys, looking out of Solva[/caption]


Anthony, the Harbourmaster pulled over in a boat that he had borrowed. A very helpful chap, he offered to move some boats for us if we wanted to spend the night leaning against the wall. We thanked him, but explained we were having a lift home the following day and needed to return to Milford that night.

As we left Solva, we had nearly three hours to cross the 7 or so miles to Jack Sound for slack water. I put the sails up, set up the autopilot and sat in the bows, watching the water drift slowly by as we hurtled along at 2 1/2 knots. It was so lovely to sail at that speed, and just let the boat sail herself.

Louise took us through Jack Sound and we were back at Dale, tied up on the mooring by about 18:30. A beautiful day.

Wednesday, 26 May 2010

Oxwich to Dale

Manorbier and Castlemartin ranges were firing. We radioed the coastguard, wary of the fact that Manorbier request traffic stays 12 miles offshore. Gave them a Lat and long 12 miles out and they said that would be fine, and we could then head Northwest into Milford.

With the long detour in mind, we set off, upping anchor at 06:30 on a beautiful hot, still summer's morning:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunrise, Oxwich"]Sunrise, Oxwich[/caption]

 

Leaving behind the other boats at anchor, we set off. We'd covered nearly 60 miles the previous day, and this one looked like being similar.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Oxwich"]Oxwich[/caption]

 

We'd expected dolphins, I'd seen them every time I've crossed Carmarthen bay. What I didn't expect was a tired stowaway, fresh, I assume, from a long trip up from Africa.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Stowaway"]Stowaway[/caption]

The dolphins were not far behind. I fired off many, many pictures; they were there for quite a while:



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="A dolphin"]A dolphin[/caption]


 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Another dolphin"]Another dolphin[/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="And, a dolphin"]And, a dolphin[/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guess what?"]Guess what?[/caption]



 

We reached the position agreed with the coastguard and I turned Northwest, intending to skirt just inside the Turbot bank, staying the requested 2 miles to the West of Linney head.

After about 20 minutes, Castlemartin radioed us. They requested that they could give us a new heading (they wanted us to go further West before turning NW). We agreed and they altered our heading twice more before thanking us for co-operating.

Even with the detour and lack of wind, we still made good time, and passed crow rock before the tide turned against us, edging into Milford Haven about 17:00. Louise wanted to pick up some provisions, so we tied off on the Mackeral stage.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar at Milford"]Ishtar at Milford[/caption]

Yes, she does have different colours in her anti-slip paint. Louise is slowly repainting her, a bit at a time. Met a nice chap there called Andrew, with a Cornish Lugger, 100 years old, and in very good nick.

After picking up some basics for a nice curry, we set off down the haven to Dale. We were soon picking up the mooring lines, switching the engine off and enjoying a bottle of wine.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale"]Dale[/caption]

Cardiff to Oxwich

....and the first part of our trip to Dale for the summer. We'd had two weekend dive trips in the cold, preparing the mooring, so it was time to sail Ishtar West for the summer.

We picked a week when Louise finished her shifts on a Thursday - that would give us four days sailing. Two days to Dale, and two days enjoying Pembrokeshire before we sail back.

Louise turned up at 10:15 - I'd stayed on Ishtar and had a couple of beers with Friends the night before. Louise took her across to the locks.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Leaving Cardiff"]Leaving Cardiff[/caption]

 

With the wind in the West, we stemmed the last of the tide as we headed past Lavernock point. It was neaps, so there was not a lot. Nice and easy, on a Starboard tack off down towards Watchet, Louise retired after her nightshift and I enjoyed the peace and quiet, away from the noise and people whinging!

There were regular radio calls from a survey vessel off the Vale of Glamorgan, but little other traffic.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Survey Vessel"]Survey Vessel[/caption]

The weather was not great for sailing, wind West, veering NW force 3 or less, dense fog patches. When it was time to tack NW, the wind had already veered.

I noticed we were near Foreland Point. In the past, I've had a boost from th etide close in there, so we headed for that. It looked lovely, but there was no additional kick from the tide at all.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Foreland Point"]Foreland Point[/caption]


 

Looking at the clock, and our speed, i realise that we might make Lundy, rather than our planned Oxwich. We'd arrive after dark. I spoke with Louise, now risen, and she loved the idea. Rather than crossing the channel, then, we'd stay on the English side.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Exmoor mists"]Exmoor mists[/caption]

 

as we entered one of the dense fog banks, we soon realised we would be very late getting to Lundy, against the tide, in the fog, in the dark. As if to aid us in our decision, the wind dropped to almost zero, and everything dripped in the damp air.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cold, wet and miserable"]Cold, wet and miserable[/caption]

 

Neither of us fancied many more hours of it, so we headed back across the channel, catching the last of teh evening sun as we approached Oxwich, leaving the fog behind.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Approaching Oxwich, late evening"]Approaching Oxwich, late evening[/caption]

Anchored at the second attempt and Louise cooked a Thai Green curry with Pasta. Tired, and with a start at 06:30, we set the bed up around 22:00.

Monday, 3 May 2010

First sail!

aboard Ishtar for me this year. Louise had taken her out on New year's day, but with the Caribbean, moving house, sorting the moorings and replacing the alternator, first time out for me personally.

Only a jaunt 'round Cardiff bay, dodging water taxis and three trip RIBS intent on churning up the water as much as possible. Wind largely Northely, gusting to a F5 from a F2. No great fun, but nice to be out, run teh engine, shake out the cobwebs.

3.6nm covered. Just over 1500 more to do if we are to rival last year......