Thursday 27 May 2010

A Short sail up the river.

My father had agreed to pick us up from Dale on Sunday and take us back to Briton Ferry. We'd travel down in the car from now on, of course, but needed a lift this first time.

The day dawned windless, or almost so. At 10:00 the Dale racing fleet set off, doing about 12 knots, cumulative, between all of them:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Racing fleet"]Racing fleet[/caption]

Went ashore in the dinghy and picked up my father. Cup of coffee, quick tour of the boat and then we set off up the river towards Milford. Nice bit of Southerly, but that died within 15 minutes and we were under power again.

My father had worked on the Texaco plant (Now Chevron-Texaco) in the 70s and 80s, so it was great to sail past the jetties with him, although it maybe doesn't show in the picture:



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Enjoying a sail ?"]Enjoying a sail ?[/caption]


 

We sailed on, up past the Cleddau bridge, up past Lawrenny turning to head back just before the tide. We managed to shut the engine off and sailed, well heeled for about 20 minutes towards Angle before the 'variable' wind died again. My father was chuffed, even more so when Louise dished up Tirimasu with Fresh cream.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Tirimasu"]Tirimasu[/caption]

 

We arrived back at Dale at 17:00 and, 2 1/2 hours later back home in Briton Ferry. First real shake down sailing of teh year, and very successful.

Day trip to Solva

Neap tides and good weather. It was slack in Jack Sound around 16:30. running South thereafter. We could sail up to Solva and take a ride back on the tide.

We set off after some hot coffee around 07:30, passing Dale Fort in the early morning sunshine.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale Fort"]Dale Fort[/caption]

 We got the sails up before rounding St Anne's head. Decided to go well to the West, then run North, past Skokholm and Skomer, before turning into St Brides bay and heading for Solva.

The wind was variable, but we did manage to get the cruising chute up for an hour as we approached Skokholm.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Skokholm"]Skokholm[/caption]

 

I'd already adjusted for the watchfulness one has to have when in  major port like Milford, and that includes maintaining a radio watch. It's not just in the Haven you have to be on your guard, though:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Close shave"]Close shave[/caption]

 

As we turned NorthWest from North, heading across the jewelled waters of St Brides bay, a nice Westerly sprang up, and we scythed along through the waters at better than 6 knots, with the tide. Then, halfway across the bay, a 180 degree swing in the wind in about 30 seconds, falling in strength as it did so. I could see solva ahead, partially hidden by the island of Green Scar.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Solva, behind Green Scar"]Solva, behind Green Scar[/caption]

We cut in between Green Scar and a smaller rock called The Mare, an excellent dive site, dodging lobster pots, enjoying the view.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Green Scar, with Black Scar (left)"]Green Scar, with Black Scar (left)[/caption]


 

Tom Bennett's 'Sea guide to Pembrokeshire' suggests passing to the East of Black rock (with an iron post on top) when entering Solva. There was little swell as we approached, but the entrance did seem narrow:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Black rock and Solva"]Black rock and Solva[/caption]

Pretty soon we were in, the temperature rocketed in this little sun trap of a harbour. We slowlymotored up towards Solva yacht club, but when I reached 0.2m under the keel I gave up.

Solva, Yacht club left.

As we turned to leave the Harbourmaster called us on the radio. He suggested we'd be fine on a visitor's mooring for an hour or so. We pulled one up, to find a strong stern line and one for the Bows. We tied up and switched the engine off. Tea, cakes and sandwiches were rustled up by Louise.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Mooring boys, looking out of Solva"]Mooring boys, looking out of Solva[/caption]


Anthony, the Harbourmaster pulled over in a boat that he had borrowed. A very helpful chap, he offered to move some boats for us if we wanted to spend the night leaning against the wall. We thanked him, but explained we were having a lift home the following day and needed to return to Milford that night.

As we left Solva, we had nearly three hours to cross the 7 or so miles to Jack Sound for slack water. I put the sails up, set up the autopilot and sat in the bows, watching the water drift slowly by as we hurtled along at 2 1/2 knots. It was so lovely to sail at that speed, and just let the boat sail herself.

Louise took us through Jack Sound and we were back at Dale, tied up on the mooring by about 18:30. A beautiful day.

Wednesday 26 May 2010

Oxwich to Dale

Manorbier and Castlemartin ranges were firing. We radioed the coastguard, wary of the fact that Manorbier request traffic stays 12 miles offshore. Gave them a Lat and long 12 miles out and they said that would be fine, and we could then head Northwest into Milford.

With the long detour in mind, we set off, upping anchor at 06:30 on a beautiful hot, still summer's morning:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunrise, Oxwich"]Sunrise, Oxwich[/caption]

 

Leaving behind the other boats at anchor, we set off. We'd covered nearly 60 miles the previous day, and this one looked like being similar.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Oxwich"]Oxwich[/caption]

 

We'd expected dolphins, I'd seen them every time I've crossed Carmarthen bay. What I didn't expect was a tired stowaway, fresh, I assume, from a long trip up from Africa.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Stowaway"]Stowaway[/caption]

The dolphins were not far behind. I fired off many, many pictures; they were there for quite a while:



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="A dolphin"]A dolphin[/caption]


 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Another dolphin"]Another dolphin[/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="And, a dolphin"]And, a dolphin[/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guess what?"]Guess what?[/caption]



 

We reached the position agreed with the coastguard and I turned Northwest, intending to skirt just inside the Turbot bank, staying the requested 2 miles to the West of Linney head.

After about 20 minutes, Castlemartin radioed us. They requested that they could give us a new heading (they wanted us to go further West before turning NW). We agreed and they altered our heading twice more before thanking us for co-operating.

Even with the detour and lack of wind, we still made good time, and passed crow rock before the tide turned against us, edging into Milford Haven about 17:00. Louise wanted to pick up some provisions, so we tied off on the Mackeral stage.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar at Milford"]Ishtar at Milford[/caption]

Yes, she does have different colours in her anti-slip paint. Louise is slowly repainting her, a bit at a time. Met a nice chap there called Andrew, with a Cornish Lugger, 100 years old, and in very good nick.

After picking up some basics for a nice curry, we set off down the haven to Dale. We were soon picking up the mooring lines, switching the engine off and enjoying a bottle of wine.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale"]Dale[/caption]

Cardiff to Oxwich

....and the first part of our trip to Dale for the summer. We'd had two weekend dive trips in the cold, preparing the mooring, so it was time to sail Ishtar West for the summer.

We picked a week when Louise finished her shifts on a Thursday - that would give us four days sailing. Two days to Dale, and two days enjoying Pembrokeshire before we sail back.

Louise turned up at 10:15 - I'd stayed on Ishtar and had a couple of beers with Friends the night before. Louise took her across to the locks.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Leaving Cardiff"]Leaving Cardiff[/caption]

 

With the wind in the West, we stemmed the last of the tide as we headed past Lavernock point. It was neaps, so there was not a lot. Nice and easy, on a Starboard tack off down towards Watchet, Louise retired after her nightshift and I enjoyed the peace and quiet, away from the noise and people whinging!

There were regular radio calls from a survey vessel off the Vale of Glamorgan, but little other traffic.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Survey Vessel"]Survey Vessel[/caption]

The weather was not great for sailing, wind West, veering NW force 3 or less, dense fog patches. When it was time to tack NW, the wind had already veered.

I noticed we were near Foreland Point. In the past, I've had a boost from th etide close in there, so we headed for that. It looked lovely, but there was no additional kick from the tide at all.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Foreland Point"]Foreland Point[/caption]


 

Looking at the clock, and our speed, i realise that we might make Lundy, rather than our planned Oxwich. We'd arrive after dark. I spoke with Louise, now risen, and she loved the idea. Rather than crossing the channel, then, we'd stay on the English side.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Exmoor mists"]Exmoor mists[/caption]

 

as we entered one of the dense fog banks, we soon realised we would be very late getting to Lundy, against the tide, in the fog, in the dark. As if to aid us in our decision, the wind dropped to almost zero, and everything dripped in the damp air.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cold, wet and miserable"]Cold, wet and miserable[/caption]

 

Neither of us fancied many more hours of it, so we headed back across the channel, catching the last of teh evening sun as we approached Oxwich, leaving the fog behind.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Approaching Oxwich, late evening"]Approaching Oxwich, late evening[/caption]

Anchored at the second attempt and Louise cooked a Thai Green curry with Pasta. Tired, and with a start at 06:30, we set the bed up around 22:00.

Monday 3 May 2010

First sail!

aboard Ishtar for me this year. Louise had taken her out on New year's day, but with the Caribbean, moving house, sorting the moorings and replacing the alternator, first time out for me personally.

Only a jaunt 'round Cardiff bay, dodging water taxis and three trip RIBS intent on churning up the water as much as possible. Wind largely Northely, gusting to a F5 from a F2. No great fun, but nice to be out, run teh engine, shake out the cobwebs.

3.6nm covered. Just over 1500 more to do if we are to rival last year......

Sunday 2 May 2010

Boring Mooring

Towards the end of last year we had decided to take a mooring at Dale.

http://ishtaryacht.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/for-our-next-trick.html

The intention was to finish the mooring before the winter chilled the water, but that never happened. A Caribbean holiday and moving house further delayed things, but we had to get on and finish the moorings if we were to use them this year. Our friends Sheila and Vince, of Alana were also taking a mooring there.

The design was as follows:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="400" caption="Mooring design"]Mooring design[/caption]



The idea was to get as much weight on the seabed as I could, subject to the constraints that I must be able to transport the components 90 miles, and then float them out from the bottom of a slip to my mooring.

Components:

3 x 4cwt concrete blocks. Just manageable by 2 men, 32mm chain embedded and galvanised pipe through the chain within each block as strengthening.

12m x 32mm 'Ground chain'. weight (est) 7cwt.

10m x 12mm riser chain.

1 x swivel, to stop the chain winding itself into a knot

1 x 2ft diameter head buoy.

3m x 12mm chain to attach to boat as a tail.

Pickup buoy

3m floating rope as second tail.

Great fun on the way down. I towed my trailer with my ground chain, Vince had his two concrete blocks in his van and his ground chain in his trailer and Louise towed the Rib with our camper van. The RIB trailer got a puncture on the way and wrecked the wheel. Good start.

Arrived at Dale just before low water, drove onto the beach and dropped off the chains and blocks. I attached the head buoys to the chains - it would help with the lifting.

2 hours later we bagan the moving process. Dive, attach lifting bag and fill, tow out to mooring, deflate lifting bag, dive, position, shackle and chain together, repeat. Finished just before 9pm, in time to get some food at the Griffin.



Vince, making up riser

Back on the boat by 8am Saturday, diving to seize all the shackles with wire and fit the risers and buoys. Recovered the RIB just before 12pm.

Very, very tiring, and very cold. Water temperature 9 degrees. Won't fancy doing this again in a hurry.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cold, and tired"]Cold, and tired[/caption]



Now for some sailing.

And Back....


Louise started squeaking and dived in, chasing a turtle all over the bay. there were a few, actually, one of them enjoying a meal of eelgrass.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Turtle, Martinique"]Turtle, Martinique[/caption]


 

A beautiful spot for a beach barbeque as well, Spanish mackeral, roasted, moist with onions and garlic.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunset, Martinique"]Sunset, Martinique[/caption]

Next stop: Dominica. We'd been looking for Whales all the way sailing Southwards, having been told that Dominica was the best spot. We saw them at last, between Martinique and Dominica on the way back, 3 Humpbacks, spotted by Louise:



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Humpback whale, off Martinique"]Jumpback whale, off Martinique[/caption]

 Another long day as teh miles stretched away behind our stern. We anchored late again, back on Dominica, at Portsmouth, passing whalewatching boats in the sunset, wondering if they had had the luck we'd had.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dominica, whale watching boats."]Dominica, whale watching boats.[/caption]


 

The following morning, as we left the North end of Dominica, there was a change in the weather. It looked as if Dominica was going to be seeing some well needed rain.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Rain, Dominica"]Rain, Dominica[/caption]

Squalls passed us all day, and, although the rain fell, there was no severe wind, although the sea picked up as we approached teh Southern end of Guadeloupe.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guadeloupe and wet weather."]Guadeloupe and wet weather.[/caption]

We'd decided to explore the Western shores of Guadeloupe on the way back, rather than sailing through the Riviere Saliere again. By the time we reached Deshaies, on the North Western point, the weather had closed in completely. Spotted this odd rig, in a very wet harbour.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guadeloupe, Deshaies"]Deshaies harbour, Guadeloupe.[/caption]

The rain cleared in the early hours and, as we picked our way through a seemingly endless field of lobster pots and fishing lines, the sun inched up.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Leaving Guadeloupe"]Leaving Guadeloupe[/caption]


As the day wore on, it warmed up considerably, and was soon back to normal. Antigua grew in the distance and the wind failed us, leaving us motoring in the heat. The day dragged on, but at last we could see the entrance to English harbour, and Nelson's dockyard.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Approaching Nelson's dockyard"]Approaching Nelsons dockyard[/caption]

 

I'd hoped to take Louise for a meal at Antigua yacht club before we left, but the restaurant was clsed, so we ate in a local bar, probably more in keeping with who we are!The following day, we flew home, but not before spotting yet another megayacht just offshore, the strange and wonderful 'A'.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="A"]A[/caption]


St Lucia

A long day. Wind on the nose and the starboard tack was very uncomfortable into largish waves, so we decided to head SSW, and then, hopefully in the Lee of St Lucia we'd have a smoother tack in. It didn't happen, so we motored the last 10 miles. Uncomfortable, but it had been a long day.

We were all glad to anchor off Pigeon Island for a swim.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Pigeon Island anchorage"]Pigeon Island anchorage[/caption]

We only stayed an hour before heading round to anchor off Rodney bay Marina. This was the place where the transatlantic racers, the ARC, finished, and there were many boats still flying the burgees. Evidently, it was possible in the past to anchor, gratis, in the middle of the marina, but this is no longer possible. New ownership has seen dredging, with a view to attracting the same superyachts we had seen at Antigua.

A sailing friend (Tom) had told us thta the Caribbean was changing, and soon would be spoiled altogether. he may be right.

Whilst provisioning at Rodney, we saw this square rigger. We hailed her and was told she was the Black Pearl, of Pirates of the Caribbean fame. Later research told us that we had been had, but she was lovely, nevertheless.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Not the Black pearl"]Not the Black pearl[/caption]

 

The following bay we continued Southwards down the West side of St Lucia. About halfway down, almost hidden from the Sea, is a tiny inlet, Marigot bay. In the past this picturesque anchorage must have been stunning, but, for me, it was overcrowded, and overused. Too many boats, and too many boat boys, constantly trying to sell things.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Boat boy"]Boat boy[/caption]

 

In sailing to such places, we are, of course, part of the problem, and it always makes me think. We snorkelled and took a mooring buoy for the night. About £15.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Marigot bay"]Marigot bay[/caption]

Onwards Southwards the following morning, heading for our most Southerly point, Soufriere bay, and the magnifecent Pitons, volcanic peaks, spectacular in the extreme.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="St Lucia, Pitons"]St Lucia, Pitons[/caption]

 You may just make out the forty foot Catamaran in this picture, for scale:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Soufriere Bay."]Soufriere Bay.[/caption]


 

I'd been diving on most of the islands we'd visited, but only seen smashed coral and overfished reefs. When our skipper, Mark, mentioned diving here, I wasn't that keen. I did go in, and the reef was pristine. Very, very pleased, Louise and I had a beautiful 30 minutes, in one of the more picturesque dive locations I've visited.
Diving, St Lucia
Diving, St Lucia
And that was that. Time to turn Northwards. 20 miles to sail back to Rodney bay, fishing as we went (we caught a Spanish Mackeral which made an excellent curry), arriving after dark. I'd seen a lot on St Lucia which I didn't like, overcrowding, and growth at the Marina, but today was beautiful, stunning scenery and a beautiful dive. The beer was particularly good that evening.

Martinique

We needed to make up some miles. One of our crew, Emma, was due to fly back to the UK from St Lucia, so we had to get there, and leave enough time to sail back to Antigua for Louise and I to fly home. Long passages are no hardship for me, so sailing 10 hours+ a day, especially with fair winds, blue sea, clear skies and warm weather, was fun.

Martinique was next on our list, although it would be a fleeting visit. On the West side of the island is a large bay,  with shelter all around, and many smaller bays and inlets, as well as the main city, Fort de France.

We stayed in a small shallow bay on the South side. I feared mosquitoes, but there were none.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Martinique anchorageGood winds the following day, as we headed out of the bay and Southwards to St Lucia. Leaving Martinique"]Martinique anchorage[/caption]