The joys of boat ownership

By and large, people like to think of long lazy days in the sun, secluded anchorages on warm summer evenings, dolphins and seabirds and azure blue seas and skies.

Yes, it was like that one day, but the rest of the time it can be cold, uncomfortable, frightening, annoying, frustrating and not at all like the dream most people have when they buy a boat. Then there is the maintenance, and the cost of ownership. Every time you look at a boat, something breaks, and every boat owner thinks it's just them that has a major failure every time they go out. I think this is why you see so many neglected boats on moorings and in marinas - the reality can be a long, long way from the dream.

So, maintenance. We keep a list in the back of the log book. It never gets shorter. Items at the top get crossed off at the same rate that new ones are added to the bottom.

Last weekend it was repairing two sails, ripped during a blow. This weekend it was

1. Oil and filter change.

2. Primary diesel filter change.

3. Secondary diesel filter change.

4. Gearbox oil change.

5. Sort wiring problem making Eberspacher heater malfunction.

6. Redistribute weight to stop boat being nose heavy.

7. Refuel at Milford.

8. Fit new Autopilot after failure of old one during blow.

Yeah. Boring. Dull post. Who wants to read about that? Show us the sunset pictures........

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dale Sunset"][/caption]

We refuelled at Milford. An hour's sail up, and hour back and an hour or so there, in and out when the lock was on freeflow. Called into the Griffin for a beer and met a chap called Adam, with a 17ft Silhouette called Watermint - she'd sailed in the 1979 Fastnet race, and he'd been to Lundy and Waterford in her.

We'd picked up a reconditioned Autopilot at Neyland, with assurances it would fit without modification. Apart from drilling a 21mm hole, 4 2.5mm holes and running in a new cable, that is.

Louise set off early on Saturday, to take Tigger ashore, and pick up some drill bits:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Drill bits?"][/caption]

Whilst Louise was gone, I changed the fuel filters. Two hours covered in diesel, bent double reaching into the engine room. Still, it had to be done.When Louise returned, I drilled out the holes for the new autopilot. Louise did the wiring - her eyesight is better than mine:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Wiring the autopilot"][/caption]

 

Louise changed the gearbox oil and I got ready to change the engine oil. Oops. No filter. That would have to wait. 15:00. We'd spent nearly all day fiddling with the boat. There was a light SW wind. We thought to head out of the Haven, find a bit of sea room and try our spinnaker. I'd flown it on a friend's boat, and was happy with the cruising chute, but we'd never flown the spinnaker on Ishtar. 3 hours later, off Freshwater West, up she went:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="225" caption="Spinnaker on Ishtar"][/caption]

Only to collapse after just 10 minutes as the wind finally gave up all together. Ho Hum.

Could be worse, Angle lifeboat were out rescuing another yacht. Engine failure and no wind had left them floating.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Angle lifeboat towing"][/caption]

They went straight back out to bring another boat in. Seems teh hot weather had brought all sorts out. We headed for Castlebeach, a secluded anchorage!

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar from Castlebeach"][/caption]

I don't know who buids these wooden sculpture things, but I've seen a few. Maybe it's the blair witch.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="225" caption="Kinky boots"][/caption]

 

We did manage a short sail on Sunday - I noticed the boat wasn't sailing as fast as usual. Maybe the weed I'd noticed below the water was sllowing her. Anyway, we spotted a few nice boats, maybe arriving for the festival of classic yachts next week:

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Classic"][/caption]

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Another"][/caption]

 

All in all, not a particularly enjoyable weekend. It all needs doing though, and it is important to remember how much work goes into running a boat. Still, the next time out should be more fun.

Climbing back on the horse

After a bit of a kicking from the weather and waves teh last time out, we arrived at Ishtar to find the same forecast. Wind Force 4-5, occasional 6. This time a Northerly, and this time sunny rather than raining.

We talked about it. I didn't fancy it. Truth be told, last time scared me more than I was prepared to admit at the time, and I really didn't fancy it again. But what to do? If we don't go out with that forecast this time, we never go out with it.

So we decided to head for St Anne's head and have a look.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="St Anne's Head"][/caption]

Curious. Here was a the same forecast as last week, except that it was wind over tide this time, and it was the same as any other 4/5 occ6 we've been out in. Great sailing.

So off we went. Northerly meant we'd want a South facing bay to anchor in. South Haven, Skomer was a posibility, but we couldn't take Tigger ashore there, so we headed up to the West of Skokholm and Skomer towards St Davids head, and a little bay West of Solva called Caerbwdi. I was feeling far less apprehensive now:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="That's better."][/caption]

And now, some dog psychology. Tigger is quite ambivalent about sailing. He likes the fact that it usually starts and ends at beaches. He likes teh fact that he gets good food, can get wet and sandy, and there are usually lots of sticks about.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="I'm on the beach!"][/caption]

It's the bit in between he is not so keen on. The flapping sails, crew fighting and shouting at each other, the crash of the boom and the slap of the waves.

Are you ready to go back to the boat, Tigger?

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Can we stay a bit longer?"][/caption]

He has improved a lot in the past few weeks. He has become convinced that dolphins may board us at any time, since he first glimpsed them on the crossing to Ireland. He feels it is his place to prowl the decks, and to repel them violently, by barking and running away.

Caerbwdi is South facing, with some rocky islets to the West of it's entrance, affording good shelter. 51 52.215N 005 14.890 W. We anchored in about 8m on sand and went ashore. A quiet bay, with a short walk along the coast path to St Davids in One direction, a bit further to Solva in the other.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Caerbwdi"][/caption]

The bay is steep sided, a small strem has cut a deep valley in the peninsula, so the sun sets a bit earlier there than out at sea. We found an old lime kiln - it's surprising how many there are in Pembrokeshire:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Lime Kiln"][/caption]

 

The curry was good. Louise rustled up some excellent Chapattis to go with it, and the sea cooled the Sauvignon Bland nicely for later. How could we have contemplated not sailing?

Louise was up early the following day. Wind still blowing a Northerly 5, but the views out over St Savids peninsula towards Ramsey Island were spectacular.



Tigger had a walk and then we set off Southwards at a cracking pace, goosewinging downwind towards Skomer and then back around to Dale:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Downwind sailing"][/caption]

Louise repaired the ripped sails when we got back. She's always loved 1980s new romantic music, and models her hair accordingly:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="240" caption="Sail repair"][/caption]

Ishtar had been neglected over the winter, as we looked for a new home, and then moved. The engine needed a good service, and the whole boat could do with a check up, and a clean. That would have to wait.

So, the question remains. How could two almost identical forecasts (apart from the rain) give a very enjoyable sail one week and a horrendous experience the previous week?

I don't know.

Climbing back on the horse.

Scary Weather

Whilst planning the Ireland trip, I'd noticed some of the forecast sites giving a Force 5, or even a Force 6 for the Monday. Whilst we've been out in that before, and enjoyed it, I didn't fancy 18 hours of it, so we headed back to Dale before it arrived.

The coastguard forecast, from the Met Office gave SE force 4 or 5, occasionally 6 for Land's End to St David's head. We decided to go for a sail out to Skokholm, knowing we could get back quickly if it became uncomfortable. We set off around 10:00 - I stayed below as Louise wanted to plan and execute the trip on her own.

After about an hour and a half I realised the boat was rolling about a bit. I came up to find that we were to the West of Skokholm, heading for Skomer. The sky was leaden, and the wind much stronger than I had realised. I suggested to Louise that it would be better to circumnavigate skokholm and get back - it was becoming uncomfortable.

She agreed and we tried to do that. It was then I started to get worried. A combination of the SE wind, and the tide running North meant that we were being taken towards Jack Sound. Rather than risk that, we turned and headed back the way we had come, around the West of Skokholm.

As we cleared Skokholm, it really started to get bad. The rain was heavy, wind felt a good steady force 6 and there were swells from the South East at about 2m. With Engine and Genoa, I could make about 2 knots, but that was pretty much due East towards Gateholm, not towards St Anne's head at all. The boat was really rolling about by now so I asked Louise to go below and sit securely - Tigger would not be happy and he'd feel better if Louise was there.

St Anne's head was 3.75 miles, an easy hour if I could make progress. With only a small scrap of Genoa out, I could not point high, however, and a couple of tacks showed me that I had to get the main up.

I called Louise and we managed to raise the main with two reefs. By now I was certain it was stronger than a force 6, and the swells were still building.

I could point higher now, and began to make progress towards St Annes head. This was after about 2 1/2 hours of getting nowhere, increasingly worried as the weather and sea deteriorated.

I could see almost nothing. The rain reduced visibility so that I could see no land. Navigating by GPS and compass, I tacked back and fore, making 1/2 mile forwards for each 3 mile tack. I didn't see the Pembroke Ferry until it was almost upon me. The waves, especially on the extreme point of my Southwest tack, were around 4m.

I knwe the tide turned at 17:30. I'd then get wind against tide and, although the tide would be with me, I really didn't fancy the sea cutting up any more than it was. Luckily, the wind veered and I was able to point to about 120T, taking me past an impressive St Anne's head, with 5mwaves, breaking crests, and then back, with huge relief, to Dale.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Rough Weather"][/caption]

It had taken 5   3/4 hrs to travel 3.75 miles. Back on the mooring We heard Angle Lifeboat towing in another yacht. I spoke to the sailors the following day amd they said conditions were appalling. A friend told me the wind was gusting over 34 knots at Dale, in the shelter of the bay.

My thoughts at the time were a mixture of trying to hang on and not panic, constantly checking position, breaking time down into half hour slots and just keep trying different things until something worked. Looking back, I have no idea why the forecast seemed so wrong, but it scared us both.

We tore a section from the UV strip on our genoa, ripped a batten pocket on the main and killed our autopilot. I badly bruised two fingers (no idea how) and we scared ourselves, knocking our confidence hugely.

When we bought Ishtar, we decided to build experience slowly. Setting targets like first overnight stay, first night at anchor,  first long passage, first sail in a force 5. Indeed, the trip to Waterford was our first full night passage.

This day taught us one thing. You cannot always be in control. The wind, weather and sea are unpredictable, and the best plans in the world can be shredded.

I think we learned a huge amount. We made it back. Ishtar can probably take much more than we think, and using the mainsail(reefed) is better for pointing high than a reefed Genoa. Best of all, we know that we can get ourrselves out of conditions we would not have believed the day before.

And back.

An early start, still dark at 04:00 and, no! the drip drip drip of rain. A miserable start. Louise on watch after we left the harbour, a bit of wind, so we could sail. Headed due South hoping to avoid the nets and pots off Hook point until the light gradually improved. And then we settled into the crossing.

By about 8am the rain had passed. The wind was from the West and teh sun came out. This did improve spirits, albeit gradually.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Rain's gone"][/caption]

As the wind continued to drop, we managed to get the cruising chute up. She flew well for a few hours, but late afternoon, just as we sighted the Smalls, there was not enough wind even for that.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="225" caption="Cruising chute"][/caption]

I actually very nearly caught a dolphin when raising the chute, and it dipped into the sea momentarily. I think that wold have been a first, and maybe not just for me.

Grassholm looked beautiful, as ever

And the setting sun behind Skokholm and St Anne's head, even better:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="SkokholmSt Anne's head"][/caption]

But we were on a mission. Sunday night, and the Griffin closed at 10:30. Tigger quite fancied a run on the beach too. I calculated I'd have 0.3m under the keel at the very end of Dale Pontoon at 22:00. In the event it was 0.1m, but that was fine, on a rising tide.

And so we'd made it. A brief, but extremely enjoyable sojourn across the Irish Sea. Something to celebrate. Two years, nearly, since we'd bought Ishtar, taken up sailing and did our Day skipper practical course.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="A pint of Cwrw Haf at the GriffinLouise and Tigger, Ishtar on pontoon"][/caption]

Waterford and Dunmore East

I'd noticed the cabin lights suddenly dim a few days before leaving. On the way across to Ireland our 110 ah auxilliary battery had refused to hold a charge at all. This meant that sailing was risky, with the autopilot draining the engine battery. Night sailing wasn't really an option, running the navigation lights as well as the autopilot from the engine battery was not an option. Annoying, but we would survive.

We took Tigger to 'The people's park' again. It seems only fair. He does enjoy the boat, and loves being with us, but we do make the effort to take him ashore for a run whenever we can. We priced a battery, E150 for a 75ah battery. I was not prepared to pay that so we made our way back to the boat.

Louise went off to buy some fresh bread when I heard someone calling me from outside the marina. I let them in - they seemed to know me and turned out to be the father and uncle of a friend from Cardiff Yacht club. They had heard about our battery problems and offered to help. I made some tea, and Louise returned with cake. Billy and Butch went off to get their boat, along with, they said, a battery that might be ok.



They returned after an hour or so and gave us a 90ah Bosch battery, which was in excellent condition. They also gave us a bottle of liquor, which was delightful. They refused any talk of payment and left, with our gratitude, for a couple of hours crusining up the river Suir. Many, many thanks for your gererosity, Billy and Butch.

Half an hour later and we were leaving Waterford. The pilot suggests working with the tide, so as soon as the flood dnded, we cast off and headed down river for Dunmore East.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Leaving Waterford"][/caption]

 

A gentle motor down the river, past the oak trees and rhododendrons, container terminals and railway bridges, and then Louise fancied a sail. Full sail and 6 knots as the river opened out into Waterford Harbour, we hurtled towards the walls of the fishing harbour at Dunmore East:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Approaching Dunmore East"][/caption]

Some friends of ours has stayed at Dunmore East two weeks before, so we were prepared to raft up against fishing boats. We asked a couple of people as we entered the harbour and soon tied up alongside a day fishing boat.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Rafted UpAs we climbed up over some old boats in very poor condition, I had to climb a ladder with Tigger under one arm. We walked around the bay to a small rocky cove behind Waterford Harbour Yacht Club when I noticed two other day fishing boats approaching Ishtar.Since we had heard that some strong winds were on the way, we'd decided to leave at 04:30. I didn't really want to be in the middle of a raft, so asked the two new boats if they minded if I moved Ishtar back to the outside. They were very friendly and 10 minutes later, we were throwing sticks into the see for Tigger.WHYC were happy to allow a sandy wet lurcher onto their balcony, so Louise and I enjoyed a drink, looking out over the moorings, chatting with the members and watching the sun set as kids splashed and shouted in the sea below.WHYC Moorings"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Wet dogs and yacht clubs"][/caption]

Took Tigger for a wander around the harbour before retiring for the night. Another beautiful day, another lovely sunset. It was to be a 4 o'clock start, so we tried to get an early night, in this bustling fishing port:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Creels and Ishtar"][/caption]

Across the Irish Sea

This was our target for 2010. If at all possible, with weather, work and doing up the new house, we'd like to make it to Ireland. Once we'd done it once, there would be no reason not to try and do it regularly, and extend our cruising area.

Bought a pilot book on Amazon and set off for Dale as soon as it arrived in the post. We arrived at Dale 14:00 Thursday and set about leaving as soon as we could, motoring out of the haven in almost no wind, the Pembroke Ferry would be there in a couple of hours, it would take us all night.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ferry leaving Pembroke"][/caption]

Even though it was the first time Louise and I had done a night passage on our own, on our own boat, I was excited. I felt elated as we rounded St Anne's head and headed Westwards, leaving Pembrokeshire behind and sailin (motoring) off into the sunset. Louise, having done a nightshift, retired with Tigger, leaving me alone to enjoy the late evening.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunset, Irish Sea"][/caption]

 The tide was running South, so I stayed 2-3 miles to the South of Skomer, Skokholm, Grassholm, the Hats, Barrels and teh smalls, looking ghostly as the light faded.

 

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Skokholm"][/caption]

There were dolphins every few miles, one emitting a curious barking noise as it surfaced. Never heard that before, and I've seen many many dolphins. Louise surfaced just before 23:00. Within 1/2 an hour or so, it was properly dark. I asked her what she could see, and she said she could see the Smalls light. I pointed out three tiny pinpricks of light, vessels running North and South in the Traffic Separation Scheme to the West of the Smalls. Once 'accllimatized' to looking for ships, I went below for a couple of hours sleep, leaving Louise to the darkness, and the sea.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Louise, Night Passage"][/caption]

We did two hour watches. In June, it doesn't get really darl until after 11:00, and the sky lightens again around 04:00, so it was a short night indeed. Louise took the next watch, and the sun was climbing when I joined her on deck just before 5am.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sunset and Saltee Islands"][/caption]

We were both tired, but strong coffee, freshly brewed, helped with that. A Southerly, force 2-3 sprang up, and teh sails helped our speed, and reduced the roll, as we appoached Hook Point Light, and the Entrance to Waterford harbour. I'm not really sure why I'd been so apprehensive - we sailed off into the darkness, but, it seems, did not disappear over the end of the Earth,  making landfall in Ireland a few hours later, all quite easy and predictable, really, but we were both grinning to be in Ireland.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Hook Point"][/caption]

As we approached Hook point, we came across many nets and lobster pots, weaving in between them, an annoyance as we neared teh entrance to Waterford harbour. We were soon 'round Hook point, however, the fishing port of Dunmore East to the West of us.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Dunmore East"][/caption]

 Waterford Harbour, the Estuary for the River Barrow, is about two miles wide, by perhaps 6 miles in length. Shallow, and marked with buoys, it nevertheless takes container ships and cruise ships as well as fishing vessels and pleasure craft. We sailed on Northwards before turning the corner into the river proper, avoiding the river ferry on the way:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="River Barrow Ferry"][/caption]

 

Tigger kept watch, in case the ferry got two close. He then programmed the autopilot to take us up to Waterford:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Couple more degrees to starboard, please."][/caption]

 

A little further upstream and the banks started to close in. Ahead lay the power station, and the point where the Rivers Barrow and suir met. Ther railway bridge has a swing section, opening on demand. We may try it next time.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Entrance to the River Barrow"][/caption]

 

The River Barrow/Suir reminded me of the Cleddau at Milford Haven, or the Avon as you approach Bristol. Deeply sloping wooded banks, with Herons and wildlife, interspersed with industrial features befitting a major port.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="I am enjoying myself, honest"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Waterford container port"][/caption]

 

A little further upstream and the River Suir splits to go around an island. we stayed in the northern channel, as the pilot suggested, and were soon approaching Waterford itself. We'd been warned about strong currents, but there were neap tides, and Louise handled Ishtar beautifully under power. We were soon tying up on Waterford visitor's pontoon.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ishtar at Waterford"][/caption]

Louise went off to pay and pick up a few brochures. There were toilets and showers nearby, and we were a couple of muntes away from the centre of town. I lay down and pretty soon was sleeping, just for an hour!

When Louise got back, we decided that 18 or so hours on a boat was enough for a small black lurcher. The tourist map that Louise had picked up showed 'The people's park' about 10 minutes walk away. With trees and wide open spaces, Tigger found it very agreeable indeed, and enjoyed exploring immensely.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Tigger exploring The People's park."][/caption]

 

Relaxed and happy, the three of us made our way back to Ishtar. Louise had spotted a curry house, and a friend, born in Waterford had recommended a bar. We wandered through the streets, just enjoying the sights:

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Church, Waterford"][/caption]

 The curry was excellent, as was the guinness. I was distraught when, around 10pm, a few chaps started playing the banjo, guitar and bodhran.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Guinness"][/caption]

They were very good, but I was exhausted, so we made our way back to the boat, and yet another stunning sunset.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Waterford Sunset"][/caption]

What a brilliant day.