Marrakech

Monday 12th November

Yesterday was a longstanding wish fulfilled. Finally made it to Marrakech after over 20 years of waiting. It was wild. Every colour, every scent, odour and smell, every possible sound imaginable, people dancing, singing, begging, drums, snake charmers, vendors off all sorts shouting out welcomes in every language, desperate to atract potential customers to buy their wares. Pics and a full description soon. Off down the coast now with fair but light winds for a few days.

Morocco

Saturday 10th November

Yesterday we crossed a direct line which ships use to enter and leave the Med. Once again, the AIS was a must.

Today was a quiet day, The night watches followed by some motoring. By late afternoon we were sailing again. A beam reach and 6 knots speed over ground. As the evening drew in, the wind increased further and we started reefing the genoa. By my first watch at midnight we had a steady 25 knots which increased well beyond 30 knots by the time John and then Louise came on later.

By my second watch at 08:00, the seas was well up. Nobody had slept much and, as easily as Chelone cut through the big seas, there was lots of creaking, bottles clanking and so on.

John made a cup of hot, sweet tea and poured it over the side. This was Remberence Sunday, and it was suggested that this was a fitting gift in memory of past sailors lost.

By the end of the day we were all very pleased to tie up in the marina at Mohammedia. It was surprisingly cold for Morocco, fleece weather. The standard of the marina was, er, ......Moroccan. Small pontoons, poor water quality, fishing boats all round. The shower was warmish, with a pungent odour.

The customs guys boarded us immediately, and went through the ship's papers and those of her 5 crew. They were amiable enough.

I loved it. It is different and exotic, and quite adequate. Susie cooked a delicious tuna savoury and Louise a surprisingly good jam sponge with custard.

Leaving Cascais

Cascais - Mohammedia, 319 miles


Friday 9th November

I didn't get a chance to make a proper post to go with the photos of Lisbon. We loved it. A fabulous city, beautiful architecture, cobbled streets, great open squares, museums, eateries, shops and a very friendly atmosphere. If you have a day to spare when moored at Cascais, go. It's 20 minutes by train, and they run every 30 minutes.

A note about motoring. On the trip so far, we've motored a lot. It's clearly possible to sail against the wind, but beating into the 25 knots or so we have encountered, added to the 3-4m swells, would have tired the crew. On other days, with 5 knots of wind, we could have sailed at 2 knots, but often switched on the iron sail and racked up the miles.

The ultimate question is time. With hopefully consistent winds crossing the Atlantic, it should be more predictable. Between the UK and the Canaries, though, how much time can you afford to lose with headwinds and no wind before switching on the power?

We left Cascais Marina at 09:30. John and Ross had tried to 'skype' the marina in Las Palmas to book a berth. With over 250 yachts expected to be there, ready for the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) which leaves in two weeks, our chances looked slim. We may need a fallback plan.

Morrocco in the meantime. Mohamedia marina, and the promise of a train trip to Marrakesh. I'd nearly been there in the mid 1980's, with a very good mate, Pete Jones, but the Uk and US bombed Libya, so we thought better of it. Fingers crossed this time.

A lovely beam reach to start the day. A securite message on the vhf alerted us to some live firing by the Portuguese Navy directly ahead. I suggested to John that we engage them. I reckon we could have taken them with a couple of volleys of rotten vegetables (there is a VERY dodgy tomato in the veg netting), or maybe lay them low by stealth - send them over some of Louise's cooking).

John was right though. What would we do with a Portuguese warship and 200 prisoners?

Ross has been in the galley for two hours now. I'm expecting a masterpiece. He likes garlic. He's gone easy this time though, just 6 cloves. Just passed a 'J' class yacht. Probably Antigua bound. Took some photos.

(Louise) I was on watch this morning from 2-4am. The sky was stunning an absolute mass of stars. We were motoring along with next to no wind, the sea inky blue with barely a ripple. I had to alter course to avoid a fishing boat so I sat in the cockpit making sure we were clear of him. Suddenly there was the familiar sleak grey body and dark fin of a dolphin diving alongside me. I stood up for a better look (obviously with my life jacket and safety harness clipped on).

I began to see the splashes of other dolphins as  they joined in the fun. At night you get whats called phosphorescence, its an algae that becomes luminous so as a wave breaks it looks like flashes of light. As the dolphins jumped their bodies caused this effect and it was amazing. As I looked out from the cockpit I could see silver streaks coming towards the boat from all directions, the ghostly trails of a pod of dolphins coming over to play. By this time I had to cover my mouth to stop myself squeeling, I was like a child at Christmas. The sea was alight with silver streaks, splashes, fins and I could even make out some of their high pitched calling. At one point three dolphins weaved along in a flashing slver trail right next to me, when they jumped I could have touched them.

Should I wake the others? Would I get a grumpy response of "i've seen dolphins before!" I stayed quiet, thinking they'd probably disappear soon anyway. 45 minutes later I was still enjoying the best light show of my life. A truly unforgetable, magical experience.

Lisbon Pictures

Our friend Sheila at Cardiff yacht club had recommended a train trip along the coast from Cascais to Lisbon. Ross, John and Susie were already going, so we joined them, walking along the now sunny harbour at Cascais, to the train station.

The 20 minute train ride cost just over 9 Euros, return, and that was for both of us. A lovely ride along the waterfront. We arrived at Lisbon and John spotted a chandlers. He was keen on buying a block of cork, to hold the hooks of the fishing lures aboard Chelone. Strangely enough, the Portuguese word for cork appears to omit the 'r', which led to some hilarity.

Lisbon was beautiful. Steeply inclined narrow streets, all with cobbles. Beautiful churches, squares, trees and shops, and a very friendly, cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Louise and found Carmo monastery, with museum. A beautiful place on a stunning day, containing all sorts of artifacts stretching back through the centuries, includind some Peruvian mummies.

Just outside the cathedral was an 'elevator', actually a wrought iron tower with stairs leading up affording a beautiful view of this most picturesque of cities:

Lunch, of pastries, salads and fruit juices, was taken in a square, complete with statues and fountains beneath the bluest of blue skies:

La Coruna to Cascais

Sunday 4th November
The forecast for Saturday was still for strong Westerlies. One of the problems, I now realise, in not rounding the corner at the Northwest point of Spain, was that it then becomes difficult with any wind with much West in it. We finally got away around 07:30 on Sunday.

John settled the bill at the marina office, but there seemed to be a query over a bill for laundry use. We wheeled out our big guns and sent Louise and Susie up to talk to the young lad in the office. I feared for him, but saw him later, so he was still alive.

We motored into big swells, Chelone slamming into the waves. As we turned the corner by degree, the wind backed and stayed on the nose, so we kept on motoring.

Louise said cheerio to her breakfast, ironically a bowl of Cheerios. A sacrifice to Neptune. Ross and I stayed on watch as the others slept and we approached Cape Finisterre. Within 5 minutes, the wind increased from 17 knots to 29 knots, gusting over 30 as a rain squall hit.

John cooked pasta and Susie served it with pesto and cheese. John then decided that we'd pull into a marina at Muras(Muxia) around 13 miles SE Cape Finisterre. I'd rather have kept going, but by 23:30, We were tied up and had a good night's sleep. I can't comment on the facilities, but there was plenty of depth, shelter and room.

83 miles

We left the marina at 10:45 and resumed our journey. Louise spotted her second sunfish, Susie made lunch and I cooked a vegetable curry and left it to marinade until evening. The sea was now slight, the winds light, and veering around to the North. Bright sunshine filled Chelone as we eased Southwards, the sounds of Fleetwood Mac's Rumours playing, as I enjoyed Thor Heyerdahl's Kon Tiki expedition, imagining myself one of Kon Tiki's crew as they crossed their own ocean 70 odd years ago. I'd probably struggle with the sun bleached hair, bronzed skin and athletic physique of the Norwegians, but I might yet manage the beard.....

Tuesday 6th November
The curry went down well. Mild for myself, John and Susie, hot for Louise and Ross. Not enough salt for Susie and John, plenty for the other three. It averaged out well.

Watches at night start around 20:00 hrs and run until 10:00 the next morning. John, Louise, Ross and myself take 2 hours on, 6 hours off. 2 watches a night, one watch a night every forth night. In terms of shipping, there's far less off Portugal than Biscay, though perhaps more fishing boats. They appear and dissapear on the AIS screen, usually trawling at 3.5 knots. John says they sometimes switch off their AIS to hide the best spots from competitors.

The cargo ships usually steam at around 10-12 knots to Chelone's 5-7 knots. By comparison, Oceana was travelling at 20. A closing speed of around 27 knots would see a 5 mile gap covered in around 11 minutes, so good watchkeeping is essential.

As we sail Southwards down the Portuguese coast, the water gets ever bluer. The thermal clothes have gone - it's t-shirts during the day and fleeces at night. John has a fishing line out, and the three crew on deck eye each other nervously at each brief clicking of the reel. Shaw, Dreyfuss and Schneider-like, Ross and I hear comments such as 'we're gonna need a bigger boat'.

My money is on cup a soup for lunch, rather than seared tuna steaks.......


Wednesday 7th November

We didn't have cup a soup, but we didn't have tuna either. The fishing reel remained eerily silent as John set up the monitor wind vane. He fiddled with it for an hour or so and then, when satisfied, explained its use to Louise, Ross and Myself. It guided us dutifully down the Portuguese coast until after sunset. Susie cooked steaks for the meat eaters and Louise did some lovely fajitas for the two of us.

The watches past without drama until some strong winds, up to 38 knots, caught John around 4am. Louise and I got up and between the three of us we dropped the main and moored Chelone alongside the marina office around 05:00.

After a couple of hours sleep, we split into groups and wandered off. A miserable grey drizzle came and went. Louise and I had some fresh bread, local olives, goat's and sheep's cheese, plum tomatoes, onions and olive oil. Simple Mediterranean fayre that I never tire of.

Marina Cascais was E21 per night for Chelone. Good showers, a mini market open until 18:00, and numerous shops and bars within 2-3 minutes of the pontoons. Wifi was, and there is a pattern emerging here, patchy.

The town is delightful. Cobblestoned streets, fortifications, palm trees, many small shops selling all sorts of things, including cork based goods. It fronts onto a small sandy beach with dozens of moorings, each holding a tiny lobster fishing boat. A beautiful place..

249 miles

A few days in Spain

Thursday 1st November

Peaceful, easy day. A relaxed morning. Coffee and porridge after rising at a very civilised 08:30. Louise and Susie took some clothes to the launderette. I quickly checked Wiki for things to do and see in La Coruna. The Torres de Hercules, a Roman lighthouse caught my eye.

I went up to see the marina manager, an amiable chap I have dubbed Manuel. I wanted to learn a bit of Spanish. I asked him for a map, which he supplied. There then followed 10 minutes of me trying to ask him what the Spanish word for map was. Eventually he got it and replied 'mapa' in a monotone voice. Deflated at such a meagre return for so much effort, I left.

Around 14:00, John, Susie, Ross, Louise and myself jumped into a taxi, paid 5 euros and took a trip to the lighthouse.

I loved it. Julius Caeser visited the area in AD 31 and it was amazing to think that Roman galleys may have sailed the same waters we sailed over yesterday. Just inside, you could see the ancient footings, including 2000 year old concrete.

The tower itself was refaced with granite in 1788, but inside, all the stonework was Roman. Ross, Louise and I climbed to the top and stared out over the now raging sea. A thoroughly enjoyable visit. The five of us then walked back to the boat via a supermarket. Louise and I had fresh crusty bread, allioli (Spanish garlic mayonnaise), roasted peppers in olive oil and fresh tomatoes. A lovely afternoon.

Darsena de la marina is fine. 32 euros a night for a 12m boat. Clean toilets and nice showers, friendly staff, a bar with reasonable prices and less than 5 minutes to walk to the centre of town.

Friday 2nd November.
Oceana arrived during the night; our second meeting. She towered above us. Her hordes filed off, wandered around for a bit and then filed back on again. Not my idea of travel at all. The folk aboard had just 6 hours ashore in total, hardly enough to get more than a tiny taste of the place.

Louise, Ross and myself took a walk around town later, and had fresh bread, olives etc. for lunch.

Then we readied the boat for a possible early departure tomorrow, checking the engine, filling water and so on. Cascais is a possible next stop, approximately 320 nm, just over 2 days away.

One thing that struck me more than anything about La Corunna was the feel of the place. Even at 10pm on a Friday night, whole families filled the squares, eating, drinking, the kids playing in the streets. No gangs of drunken youths and no threatening feeling that one might encounter in any British town on a Friday night. It was really happy, laid back, just nice.

First few days

547 miles


Saturday
We finally left Neyland at 10:21 on Saturday. All of us were desperate to get away after the ups and downs of the last few days. I helmed Chelone down the Haven and we raised the mainsail. Free at last!

Soon we were passing St Annes head and let out the Genoa. With Southwesterlies forecast for Sunday night, we headed out on a course to give us as much Westing as possible. Wind NE force 5.

Very comfortable. We were 42 miles NW of St Marys in the Scillies by my watch at 01:00 Sunday. During the day we kept watch together, but at night we kept strict watches of 2hrs each.

I loved it. Yes, I was tired, but we were at sea, after so much anticipation.

It was overcast on Sunday and the wind backed and strengthened. We put a reef in the main and soon started seeing 25 knots and more, now Westerly, now Southwesterly.

We were 100 miles and more to the West of Ushant as our course took us SE into Biscay, close hauled, the occasional 30  knots appearing. By my 05:30 watch on Monday there was water over the gunwhales and occasionally into the cockpit. I could barely make out the lights on the fishing boats weaving around us and they kept disappearing from our AIS screen and then appearing again just a mile away, hidden by the swells.

I was knackered by now and slept until after midday. When I got up it was all change. Wind down to F3 and sunny. Container ships made their way past and it was warm enough not to need a jacket.

As the day wore on the wind dropped and dropped and was just 5 knots as we motored into a balmy evening. I cooked tortellini in a sauce of onions, garlic, courgettes, peppers an basil in olive oil. Seemed to go down well.

My watches that night were 20:00-22:00 and 04:00 -0600. Biscay was now benign, flat with just 3 knots of wind and a full moon.

Tuesday

Ships passed to the west of us heading South and to the east of us heading North. Chelone has AIS which was extremely useful. It was simple enough to find the course and direction of each ship and take the necessary action.

The other benefit of the AIS was the fact that they could see us, and we could watch them change direction. Knowing the name of the ship also meant we got a friendly response when we called them on VHF, often just to ask if they could see us, our lights, radar reflection or AIS signal. The AIS system on Chelone is Transas m4b. as well as ouputting to chartplotter via nmea, it talks to a pc, through usb ports. Using the free OpenCPN charting system, we thus had full backup. Opencpn can also overlay grib files, another good point.

Chelone also has an icom hf radio, which we used in conjunction with a program called Mscan meteo to get weather faxes. Left on all night, we had a full set of charts going forward 96 hours or more, ready to view in the morning.

Great fun this morning. The cruise ship Oceana passed to our starboard side.

John couldnt resist calling her on vhf. They were more than happy to give us a weather report and even send an email on our behalf. The forecast was not good. 4-5m swells and 25 knots from the South West for tomorrow night (Wednesday). The rest of the day passed slowly. I made a potato and leek soup, which went down well. A couple of hours before sunset we raised the staysail which gave us another hallf knot, pushing Chelone's speed over 7 knots. It was a high point for me too, the first time I'd sailed a cutter rig.

With just 8 knots of wind from the Northeast, my 22:00 watch was easy. By my second watch at 06:00, I was knackered again, but, as the sun rose, a golden ball in the SouthEast, I caught my first glimpse of Spain. We'd crossed Biscay. The weather was taking a turn for the worst, though, with 30 knot Westerlies forecast for the evening on Wednesday. We hoped we could get around the corner to Bayonne, on Spain's West coast before then, but had a fallback plan of La Coruna, on the North coast, if that failed.

By 10:00 the wind was a steady 13 knots SE. Just three hours later though, it suddenly increased to 20 knots from the SW. It was clear within 1/2 hour that we were not going to make Bayonne. We turned and enjoyed a lovely downwind sail into La Corunna, tying up in Darsenna marina at 18:00, in time for a beer.